The claw setting, also referred to as prong set, is one of the most classical and popular settings for diamond solitaire engagement rings. This setting usually consists of four or six metal prongs into which a stone is set. A prong setting can be high, placing the diamond above the ring’s band, or it can be low, with the stone resting closer to your finger.
The pros of this setting is that the girdle of the stone is exposed and light is able to travel through the stone and maximize the stone’s brilliance and sparkle. The simplicity of the setting makes it a classic and enables the focus of the ring to be on the beauty of the stone. Often a smaller diamond can seem larger due to the delicacy of the setting.
The claws keep your stone very secure, however, it does not offer the same protection for the stone as some more enclosed settings. The exposed girdle can leave the stone more vulnerable and the claws can sometimes snag in clothing. It is important to get your jeweller to check the prongs of your ring for signs of wear and tear and to check that your stone held tightly.
You can create an absolute ‘classic with a twist’ when designing a claw set ring. You can see above how I played with the idea of using three claws and altering the shape of the claws to triangles. There is a real play with symmetry and shapes.
I have also designed rings where I have placed the claws at unusual angles, such as north, south, east and west. You can also enhance the shape of square or rectangular cut stones by designing heavy and angular corners.
I really enjoy playing with the proportions of the claws and band in order to flatter my clients hand and the stone.